So this wasn’t our first time in Cape Town – we’d actually visited for the weekend on a previous work trip and we even climbed Table Mountain and saw how amazing it was up close. But driving up to it from a distance is a whole different kettle of fish. Table Mountain is something truly very special. The top of the mountain is covered by these special clouds, called orographic clouds, which spread across the top of the mountain like a table cloth (hence the name). They look magical, as if seeping down the side of the mountain, but they are actually formed by warm winds coming up the mountain’s slopes and merging with colder air. The moisture condenses and forms the “table cloth” of cloud, even on the clearest and sunniest of days.
One of the peaks of table mountain is called Devil’s Peak and the legend around the clouds says that they were formed a long time ago when the Devil had a smoking contest with a local pirate called Van Hunks. We were driving up to the mountain around sunset so it was just spectacular the view (much more than the photo below lol).
We had really struggled to find somewhere to sleep in Cape Town as everything was fully booked, so we ended up staying in a hostel room with 6 bunk beds. The bathroom was shared with the rest of the hostel, and there were massive restrictions on water usage in Cape Town because of the drought. A serious downgrade from the Sheraton in Pretoria, but it was an experience all the same. Either way, we already knew the best bars in Cape Town (that’s how we roll) so we didn’t hang around for very long.
The plan was to spend our last evening in Africa celebrating. We were going to go cocktail bar hopping (yes, I am aware how yuppie that sounds), and we had this great idea to take a photo of each of the menus so that we could remember which wonderful South African cocktails we had drunk. Sadly, when I went to check it out the next day it turned out that our collection ended at bar number 1 (the moment we came up with the idea) as we had completely forgotten about any of it by the second bar. Let’s just say no-one was designated driver this evening 😉
A few nice cocktail bars and a few nice cocktails later we were both in a better mood and had forgotten all about the matchbox-sized cesspit we were sleeping in with two slightly awkward Chinese guys. At this point I decided to gently encourage/ coerce Josh to take this party to the next level- African style. I was hungry and I just couldn’t eat another burger- my Serbian belly was craving something stewy and goulash-y (as we say in Serbia – something to eat with a spoon). While Josh thought the notion of anyone “craving goulash” was the most Eastern European thing he’d ever heard, it was reason enough for us to make our way to this nearby African restaurant. If anyone knows how to do stews it’s the Africans. It’s very difficult in South Africa to find a “South African restaurant”- they are usually African restaurants that offer a mix of everything- South African Potjie, Mozambican prawns, Moroccan lamb, Zimbabwean Dovi etc. I’m not sure why but South African food tends to be more focused on the braai and basically meat cooked 37 ways. It’s probably the only place I’ve been that appears to eat more meat than the Serbs. I mean at least we have side salads (to accompany our meat of course).
So as we walk into the restaurant we realise we’re in for a treat because 1. there is a rucksack seller meaning I can buy an 8th African rucksack for myself and 2. the band Abavuki is playing live music that night (a traditional African/jazz band- highly recommended and available on Apple Music :)). I mean it was crazy- the dancing, the music, the drums – the whole place had this insane energy and even Josh was getting into it. I mean I’ve never seen a white boy dance like that before…Don’t know if it was the vibes that night, the fact it was our last night in this amazing country or the fact that some of us (no names mentioned) couldn’t remember the last time we’d been sober…or maybe a combination of the three, but it was a mega fun night and a super experience.
The night wasn’t over though, and we shortly left for another bar. This time we were disappointed to discover that the bar we picked ended up being South Africa’s version of a Walkabout. Needless to say we very shortly regretted this decision. When Josh eventually wobbled off to bed (although I had to chase him down the street for about 10 minutes to tell him he was going the wrong way- he walks fast when he’s drunk), I made my way to the final bar of the night- an underground Nigerian club with our new Zimbabwean friend Michael. I couldn’t even identify the genre of music that was played and I certainly couldn’t keep up with the dance moves, but it was a very different experience to end the night with. When in Rome 🙂
With that I had satisfied my need for a night of multi-African food, music and dancing (including my very awkward attempt to grind and twerk to some Nigerian club music in a club where I appeared to be the only non-Nigerian). I could finally call it a night 🙂
This whole South African trip/adventure definitely had its ups and downs for both of us, but that week’s holiday was one of the best holiday’s I’ve ever had and that night we said goodbye in style 😉
The next day after a final round of shopping, some hardcore bargaining (which wasn’t easy I can tell you that- even for a seasoned pro negotiator such as myself), and African rucksacks number 9, 10, and 11 (I mean they are just so cool), we made our way to the airport. We flew to Joberg and got ready for the long flight home. I was so happy- I had had the best holiday ever and Josh had been the best travel partner I could ask for. Even when he pretended not to know me at the airport in an attempt to get a free upgrade, I still forgave him and was nice to him on the flight home 🙂
